The rear suspension geometry was in a pretty good place without any changes... but that didn't stop me. The pics above show the modified front geometry in black and the rear geometry in red. The lower picture is the same with 2 degrees of roll added.
Since I was okay with the roll center, and the suspension movement isn't enougn to worry about the camber change, I opted to build new control arms that used the stock mounting points, but added increased adjustability.
After considering a LOT of different options, I designed the above control arms. Are they the BEST design? Probably not, but I like them. The aluminum bushings at the inner pickup are drilled about 3/16" off center to provide easy camber adjustment from below. That amount of offset only gave me about 3/4 of a degree, which is good for fine tuning, but I wish I had gone farther off center.
Here is a rundown of all of the control arms I was considering (click here)
Using a stock control arm, I built a a jig (the rusty plate of steel) to locate the inner and outer pickup points. I used .095 wall 1" diameter mild steel tubing. Most folks I know of have used .120 wall, but I am confident the .095 is strong enough. Time will tell! (After 2 years they are still working without issue.)
Almost finished tacking the first arm togehter
Test fit on the upright before adding the final brace.
The final product ready for a test fit.
On the car for the first time...
Here it is after a few events. So far, no malfunctions!
Here's a top view showing the sway bar attachment/toe adjuster. I basically copied the old Arizona Z car toe aduster design... As they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!